A personal reflection on returning to Lubango, Angola. Discover the excitement and anticipation of a familiar destination and gain insights into the preparations and emotions of a seasoned traveler.
As the plane descended into Lubango, a rush of excitement filled me. This weekend was shaping up to be a thrilling mix of sport and exploration. The Lubango half-marathon had caught my eye, and while I wasn’t ready for the full race yet, the 5 km walk seemed like the perfect way to start my Sunday morning.
My trip was meticulously planned around this event. A week before, I discovered an intriguing train tour from Lubango to Bibala and, even better, Angola’s first rock-climbing festival, which coincided with my travel dates. This weekend was shaping up to be one for the books.
I flew in on Thursday night, ready for a packed schedule: the rock-climbing festival on Friday, the train journey on Saturday, and the 5 km walk on Sunday.
My Thursday morning was spent packing my trusty swimming bag with essentials: clothes, sports gear, gadgets and miscellaneous items. I also packed a few items to handle the varying temperatures, like Vaseline for my dry skin and a portable fan for the sweltering heat 32ºC in Bibala, the highest temperature I’d experienced all month.
After packing, I headed to work and during my lunch break, visited my favourite market in town – Mercado dos Congolenses, also known colloquially as Beco dos Congolenses (Congolenses Alleyway) – where I got my hair braided into two cornrows – known locally as ‘viradas’. This would save me from having to worry about my hair during the trip.
Mercado dos Congolenses, known for its variety and vibrancy, provided the perfect setting for this. I looked for the lady who normally does my hair, but her phone was off, and she was out selling (“zungar,” as we say locally). So, I asked around for someone else to do it. I love local markets for their unexpected services.
At the market, I chatted with some of the sellers before and after getting my hair done. The area where I get my hair braided at is specifically for women and children, featuring everything from clothes and shoes to kitchenware, and even a nail and hair salon. I appreciate this market for being easy to navigate, safe and organised.
I got my hair braided at one of the stalls where women sell hair extensions for braiding and care products. A salon was improvised for me – the lady who did my hair sells hair products and pulled out a chair for me right in front of her stall, where she did my braids. Next to me, some women were eating and chatting about daily affairs. I was charged 2,000 Kwanzas for my braids. Normally, they’d cost 500 to 1,000 Kwanzas (given the location and type of braids I got done), but given the rush and the quality, I didn’t feel the need to bargain.
Getting my hair braided at Mercado dos Congolenses was a highlight. Not only did I get a new look, but I also enjoyed chatting with the local vendors and immersing myself in the lively atmosphere of the market.
After work and final preparations, I headed to the airport, feeling a mix of excitement and relief. A short nap before the flight was just what I needed to recharge for the adventures ahead.
As I stepped off the plane, a wave of cold air hit me and it reminded me of how chilly Angola’s winters can get (check the images below for the weather forecast in Angola during our winter season, which peaks in June-August). I couldn’t wait to explore the region and some of the many things it had to offer.
A cousin picked me up from the airport and dropped me at the hotel. I chose a hotel over an apartment (though there are now several options in Lubango) for the added convenience of breakfast and housekeeping, especially with a weekend packed with activities.
I stayed at Hotel VIP Huíla, which offered a comfortable and clean room equipped with a mini-fridge and functioning air conditioning. However, some areas could use improvement. For instance, a fresh coat of paint on some walls and a repair of the out-of-service elevators—requiring guests to use the stairs to access their rooms—would enhance the experience (though the hotel is only three stories high, including the ground floor). On the plus side, the double bed was surprisingly spacious, reminiscent of a king-sized bed. The staff were notably friendly and attentive, contributing to a positive overall stay.
One of the hotel’s advantages is its proximity to a large supermarket that features various restaurants and useful shops, making it easy to grab a meal or find essentials without having to travel far.
That night, I relaxed and prepped for the exciting days ahead by editing some video footage.
For convenient transportation around the city, I recommend using the Heetch app, which simplifies booking reliable rides and navigating Lubango efficiently. It’s also a good idea to have cash on hand for Heetch rides, as some drivers only accept cash, domestic bank tranfers or cardless cash withdrawals (available to local bank account holders). For a more adventurous experience, you might consider renting a car to explore at your own pace or hailing motor taxis, though I advise against using motor taxis at night for safety reasons.